Evolution of Surf: Vietnam
The rise and fall... and rise of surfing in Vietnam
When you think of South East Asian surf destinations, Vietnam is probably one of the last countries that comes to mind. But with over 3,000 kilometers of coastline and a large seasonal swell that comes across the South China Sea, Vietnam is home to some of the region’s sickest waves and a surf culture that is as unique as the country itself.
Bloody Beginnings
The story of how surfing arrived in Vietnam is part of what makes the culture here so unique. Flash back to the late 60s during the Vietnam War (or as the Vietnamese call it, the American War) in an American R&R outpost situated in a coastal city called Da Nang. Thousands of American GIs were fed up fighting a war that they largely wanted no part in. They were looking for some much needed relaxation - naturally, they headed to the beach.
The outpost only had six surfboards when Larry Martin arrived in 1968. He recalls the boards being rented out to anyone, resulting in soldiers from Iowa, for example, nearly drowning. “So I said, look, let’s form a club. We’ll check people out to see if they can really surf, and if they can, we’ll issue them cards”, Martin commented. Hence, the China Beach Surf Club was born.
This became a much needed touch of home for many soldiers, most of whom were suffering from the terrors of war. Unfortunately, it wasn’t possible to completely escape the war, as Martin remembers being shot at while out on the water: “In the distance we could see there were rockets coming in, hitting the Marine base. That didn’t bother us, but then all of a sudden the water started breaking up around us. It was machine gun fire from somebody on shore. We paddled out about 500 yards, and just stayed there. We didn’t come in until dark.”
Even with extreme scenarios like that, surfing was a way for many soldiers to heal as it was one of the only ways that they could forget what was going on around them. After the war ended, however, the Americans left and the locals, who were largely without access to equipment and instructors, were unable to continue the surfing tradition.
Tam’s Surf Revival
Surfing pretty much completely disappeared from Vietnam for the next few decades, until a lady who goes by the name of Tam helped bring it back to Da Nang over 20 years ago. Tam is a legend both locally and in the US, as she was practically raised by American soldiers during the war. Among many other American traditions, these soldiers are the ones who introduced her to surfing at a very young age.
After the war ended, Tam endured years of suffering and hardship under a strict communist regime. Nevertheless, she persevered, and she was eventually able to save up enough money to open a bar and restaurant. Naturally, she decided to serve burgers and BBQ - just the way her American brothers taught her.
As you may know, many American soldiers who were lucky enough to survive the war return to Vietnam in their elder years to experience the country from a new perspective. In typical ‘Murican fashion, these soldiers turned tourists long for a taste of home while they are here. As fate would have it, they often end up at Tam’s Pub, eating the same food she fed them decades prior. As they begin sharing stories, many of them begin to recognize Tam, as she is the notorious Viet girl who knew how to surf.
When Tam first opened her restaurant, customers began asking where they could find a surfboard in town, but as was already mentioned, surfing no longer existed in Vietnam. Tam, being the businesswoman she is, decided she would again fill the unserved market and start renting surfboards to the tourists. And thus, surfing was back in Vietnam.
Establishing a Community
To say the surf community is growing rapidly here would be an understatement — not only in Da Nang, but also in other towns like Mui Ne and Nha Trang. With the founding of the Da Nang Boardriders Club and support from the local government, Da Nang is well on its way to establishing itself as a surf destination.
Now, there’s a number of quality surf shops and schools all along My Khe Beach. Nguyen Hoang Duy founded Surf Feeling, a surf school in Da Nang that gives private surf lessons and rents high quality surf boards, to help spread good vibes and help surfing flourish in both Da Nang and Vietnam as a whole. He commented on surfing’s growth here, explaining that “the community grow very much last 10 years [sic]. I am happy to share the waves with everyone — Vietnam people or foreign people.”
In October, I was privileged enough to be able to attend the second annual Da Nang Invitational - the first contest of the three part Da Nang Surf Series. In the words of the competition’s emcee, Johnny Kongo, “the idea [of the surf series] is to bring surfing to Vietnam and create a solid community.” The event, hosted by the Da Nang Boardriders Club in collaboration with a number of local businesses, was a perfect representation of the surf community here. Between the competitors and fans, there was a healthy mix of locals and expats who came together in the name of good waves and good times.
The contest is growing, too. In its second iteration, the 2023 Da Nang Invitational featured over 50 competitors from all around the world, including a new kids division. The competition started off slow, with small glassy waves leaving a lot to be desired for competitors and fans. As the day progressed however, the sea began to cooperate and a serious swell started to roll through. By the end of the day, surfers were seeing consistent 1.5 to 2 meter waves - and they took full advantage of the surf gods’ blessing. Jorge Sangachi, hailing from Ecuador, and Sony Tri, a Viet from Mui Ne, went head-to-head in the final heat exchanging high energy rides that featured technical maneuvers and combos that most surfers dream of putting together. Funny enough, Jorge is from a small surf village called Olon that I had the pleasure of visiting in the beginning of 2023. Those are some of the best and most consistent waves I have ever seen, but I digress. Much to the appeal of the locals, Sony took home first and rode off into the night on the shoulders of his fellow competitors.
From the American soldiers who introduced it, to being the home of a fast-growing surf competition, surfing has come a long way in Vietnam. As more locals and expats alike continue to grow the sport in Vietnam, it seems clear that this time, surfing is here to stay.
So glad you finally posted this amazing story. Another great read. LST- Just Surf! May your day be filled with great swells and sweet rides. Love you
Interesting history. Thanks for sharing. Enjoy your adventures 🏄♂️